Early Enamel & Pearl Ring

Jewelers of the 17th century often favored the use of black and white or black and light blue enamel. A growing interest in floral motifs and naturalism was blooming. Just think of the tulip mania that swept through all of Europe and you have the groundwork for the proliferation of organic themes in the arts and design. During this period, enamel was shifted from being the primary jewelry adornment to a second tier of importance. Gems and stones began to reign as supreme.

Eight (8) natural pearls dot the surface of this basket shaped ring. The enamel and pearls are held within an oval pointed-shaped cup of high carat gold. Alongside each pearl are high carat gold channels that have been chased and carved. Inset into each are pools of opaque enamel. This champlevé enamel work (powdered enamel, placed into a groove and fired, melts and cools to form a glass-like surface) dominated Renaissance and 17th century jewelry.

At the peak, one large pearl is wired into the top; beside it four (4) cusps are hollowed out and filled with enamel. The swirling pattern of black on a white ground enlivens excites the visual impact.

All natural, the pearls are baroque in shape and have varying shades of cream to gray green with the central pearl showing highlights of pink and purple. Various levels of luster are evident - each still maintains a good amount of sheen and has glowing presence. Grandly, the ring sits up off the finger 7/8 of an inch (1.1 cm).

The shank or band has patterned work on the sides, formerly filled with enamel with only traces remaining. Underneath are graceful banded channels of convex gold. The ring dates to the last quarter of the 17th century and is most likely Continental in origin, perhaps Southern Italian. Large in scale for rings of this era, it is a sumptuous relic of its day.

The condition is quite remarkable with light wear to the gold; most of the shank enamel with only traces left; a cusp under the top pearl has most of the enamel missing and another cusp has a chip; one area next to the base layer of pearls has lost some enamel. All pearls are in fine condition. A French eagle's head mark is apparent on the outside of the shank. Although difficult to ascertain, it is most likely a later export or resizing.

Measures just over 5/8 of an inch (1.6 cm) by 1/2 of an inch (1.3 cm). Sits up 3/8 of an inch (1 cm) from the finger.

Size: US 7-1/4 (British O; Euro 17-3/4; 55 mm). Can be sized by our team of expert jewelers.

This ring is not recommended as an engagement ring. Very scarce to a rare example of an early ring.

Important: This ring should have limited exposure to heavy wear and water and no exposure to cleaning products or harsh chemicals due to its age and the nature of pearls. If considering this as an engagement ring, please keep this in mind.